A Change in Plans; Life Marches On - October 2

Today we were to depart Harris and continue our adventure on the Isle of Skye and then Glencoe.  However, this morning we received the sad news that Rick's mother passed away and so this adventure must come to an end so that we may return to be with family and attend her funeral.  She has been having health issues, but her death came as surprise as we did not suspect she was that ill. 

We are thankful for the time that we had together on Harris and return to family with full hearts to provide the love and support needed during this difficult time.

Until we meet again Scotland, Slainte, and thank you.

Isle of Harris, Day 4 - October 1

A sunrise of gentle colors portended what turned out to be a day of dynamic whether resulting in endless photographic opportunities of every climatic condition set in this bold and daunting, landscape of mountains, glens, and beaches.  Storms were moving in which made for great wave action, but the sky was not socked in yet so we had wonderful cloud formations set against brilliant blue and great dappling of light.

We didn't get a few hundred feet down the road before we had to stop and photograph the shoreline adjacent to one of the 400 freshwater lakes that dot Harris' landscape.

Our goal for the day was to visit Luskentyre, Harris' largest and arguably most well known white sandy beach. Its size has the capacity to swallow the human form as good as any mountain scene.

And yet as we drove along the coastline we found beautiful intimate scenes and rocky inlets colored with red grasses, purple heather, yellow and orange lichen, and shallow aquamarine waters.  We drove to the end of this road, as we have done on many others on this island, passing through a collection of homes, one of which contains the workshop of the weaver who produced the lovely heather colored harris tweed fabric used to make my recently purchased coat.  We could see him working in his shop, but as his sign was not out (we were told to look for that) we sensed he did not want to be disturbed so we let him be and moved on.

Work Studio of My Harris Coat Weaver

Near the end of the road was a cemetary, most beatifully set against the backdrop of white beach, beach grassess and the waters of the sea.  We hiked down to the large beach, despite the high tide coming in.  By this time, it was afternoon so we stopped at a camping spot and had a picnic of wine, cheese, crackers, and fruit, while we gazed at the landscape before us.  Afterwards we tipped back our seats, opened the windows and took a nap in the breeze and the sound of the lapping tides.

Our Picnic Spot

Afterwards we decided to change things ups and explore Lewis' largest city, Stornoway, up in northeast Lewis.  It is an idyllic port town, with its own college, set in Lewis' castle (under renovations), college, and golf course.  We briefly wandered amongst the shops and then decided to head back to Harris in search of more photographic opportunities.  We got 'em.

We drove west, through storm after storm, and consequently, rainbow after rainbow.  We couldn't photograph them all.  We debated where to attempt sunset and decided to return where we began, the rocks looking towards Traigh Mor.

It looked like it was going to be another dissappointing sunset, with clouds socked into the west, but a couple of hours before sunset, the clouds broke apart setting upon us storm after storm, soaking us to the bone and almost blowing us from the rocks, but the storms also opportunity after opportunty of fabulous light on the mountains and beaches of Harris to the north.  Standing on those rocks seeing this beautiful repeat movie of beauty is a most profound experience and I was so thankful that I was able to share it with my husband and life partner.

The day ended with a return to the Pierhouse in Tarbert for yet another dinner of langostinos, scallops, and Sancerre.  Yes, a repeat performance of the dinner we had two nights previously, but let's face, it dining options were limited and given the quality of the food, we didn't mind in the least.

We came back to sit in our living room, lights out, taking in the shadows of the landscape and starry sky while listening to a music mix of Bon Iver, Explosions in the Sky, and Sigur Ros.  The end to one of life's perfect days.

Isle of Harris, Day 3 - September 30, 2014

Woke up again to stormy conditions.  Felt a touch of a cold coming on so made some tea with whiskey and lemon, and felt better :-)  Stayed in the broch until about 10:00 waiting for the storm to pass.  It did, but left behind grey skies.   One thing we've learned is that the weather can change on a dime so you might as well venture out.

Had breakfast at the Temple Cafe and then stopped by a little establishment called Croft 36 that delivers home-cooked suppers.   The couple invited us into their kitchen and we placed an order for beef bourguignon, fish curry, fish soup, and orange/peach whiskey swedish pancakes and ice cream for dessert.  Outside of their home they have a stand where you can buy all sorts of prepared goods and you pay on the honor system.  They had dressed crab, pasties, fresh bread, tarts, drinks, all sitting in baskets for sale.  Rick purchased a fresh-baked role, and I bought a Indian curry vegetable pastie.  OH YUM!  I've always said that wherever I live, there must be good Indian food.  Who would have thought that I would have found it here on the Isle of Harris?

The Isolation of West Harris' Moonscape

We proceeded south to Leverbaugh, where we picked up some petrol.  When paying for it, the gentleman operting the cash register, started quizzing me about the the nicknames for all the US states.  First capitols in Glasgow, and now nicknames, I'm learning more about my own country than Scotland.  He asked us what Oregon's nickname which I guessed (correctly) was the Beaver State.   He was pleased.

Harris Tweed Company , Grosebay

We then set off to finish our exploration of the lunar landscape of east Harris.  Some of these communities and homes are so isolated.   We then headed over to yet another Harris tweed shop where we met Bonnie, the 5-month old Newfoundland pup (who apparently broke the outdoor mirror) and Chip, the sweet sheepdog who loved to be gently petted.  In addition to dogs, the place had fine Harris tweed clothing and woolen knitwear.  We made a couple of purchases unable to resist the fine quality of goods as well as the fine salesman ship of Jane and her colleague Collin, who looks a bit like Sheldon from "The Big Bang Theory".

Amhuinnsuidhe Castle

Cow jams

Then we headed up as far as we could the west coast of Harris, battling cow and sheep jams,ending at Huishnish Beach.  During the drive we past a castle which we later discovered to be Amhuinnsuidhe Castle Estate, reknowned for its salmon fishing and whiskey.  We've sampled and liked both.

Huishinish Beach

Drive to Huishnish

Huishnish Beach is yet another beautiful white sand beach and aquamarine waters.  Rick and I hiked north through the machair (fertile ground between the beach and the boggy marshess) to get a view of Lewis Isle and its peaks and the Island of Scarp and spent a few hours exploring the area while waiting to see if the cloud cover would break and give us some good light.

Huishnish Beach - Waiting for good light

Huishnish Beach - Looking South

We headed back to the Broch, stopping at what has become our regular location to see if we could capture a good sunset,and had some success.

We then returned to our home away home where we had a delicious meal of fish soup, fish curry and beef bourguignon.