Wednesday, October 1, 2014

Isle of Harris, Day 3 - September 30, 2014

Woke up again to stormy conditions.  Felt a touch of a cold coming on so made some tea with whiskey and lemon, and felt better :-)  Stayed in the broch until about 10:00 waiting for the storm to pass.  It did, but left behind grey skies.   One thing we've learned is that the weather can change on a dime so you might as well venture out.

Had breakfast at the Temple Cafe and then stopped by a little establishment called Croft 36 that delivers home-cooked suppers.   The couple invited us into their kitchen and we placed an order for beef bourguignon, fish curry, fish soup, and orange/peach whiskey swedish pancakes and ice cream for dessert.  Outside of their home they have a stand where you can buy all sorts of prepared goods and you pay on the honor system.  They had dressed crab, pasties, fresh bread, tarts, drinks, all sitting in baskets for sale.  Rick purchased a fresh-baked role, and I bought a Indian curry vegetable pastie.  OH YUM!  I've always said that wherever I live, there must be good Indian food.  Who would have thought that I would have found it here on the Isle of Harris?

The Isolation of West Harris' Moonscape
We proceeded south to Leverbaugh, where we picked up some petrol.  When paying for it, the gentleman operting the cash register, started quizzing me about the the nicknames for all the US states.  First capitols in Glasgow, and now nicknames, I'm learning more about my own country than Scotland.  He asked us what Oregon's nickname which I guessed (correctly) was the Beaver State.   He was pleased.

Harris Tweed Company , Grosebay
We then set off to finish our exploration of the lunar landscape of east Harris.  Some of these communities and homes are so isolated.   We then headed over to yet another Harris tweed shop where we met Bonnie, the 5-month old Newfoundland pup (who apparently broke the outdoor mirror) and Chip, the sweet sheepdog who loved to be gently petted.  In addition to dogs, the place had fine Harris tweed clothing and woolen knitwear.  We made a couple of purchases unable to resist the fine quality of goods as well as the fine salesman ship of Jane and her colleague Collin, who looks a bit like Sheldon from "The Big Bang Theory".

Amhuinnsuidhe Castle
Cow jams
Then we headed up as far as we could the west coast of Harris, battling cow and sheep jams,ending at Huishnish Beach.  During the drive we past a castle which we later discovered to be Amhuinnsuidhe Castle Estate, reknowned for its salmon fishing and whiskey.  We've sampled and liked both.

Huishinish Beach
Drive to Huishnish
Huishnish Beach is yet another beautiful white sand beach and aquamarine waters.  Rick and I hiked north through the machair (fertile ground between the beach and the boggy marshess) to get a view of Lewis Isle and its peaks and the Island of Scarp and spent a few hours exploring the area while waiting to see if the cloud cover would break and give us some good light.

Huishnish Beach - Waiting for good light
Huishnish Beach - Looking South
We headed back to the Broch, stopping at what has become our regular location to see if we could capture a good sunset,and had some success.



We then returned to our home away home where we had a delicious meal of fish soup, fish curry and beef bourguignon.

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